Exclusive: Get a First Look at the Spring 2020 Bridal Collections
The official proposal season may kick off in December (in conjunction with the holidays!), but we'd argue that the best months to become engaged are April and October. The reason? Timing the big moment with Bridal Fashion Week, which hits New York City twice per year, is a major bonus; as a bride-to-be, you'll be able to start shopping for your dream wedding dress after looking at countless numbers of new, inspired creations from some of your all-time favorite designers. In other words, you'll be better informed when it comes time to visit each atelier and bridal salon.
Before these hot-off-the-runway garments hit the racks (or the runways, for that matter!) their lauded designers give Martha Stewart Weddings an exclusive look at the series to come. Ahead, you'll find sketches that represent the very best of these creatives' Spring 2020 wedding dress collections—and you can say that you saw them here first. If these sneak-peeks are any indication, there's a gown on the horizon for every type of bride. Whether you've envisioned a romantic, floral-adorned number fit for a garden wedding or are a decidedly modern bride-to-be who wants to rock a new-age pantsuit down the aisle, you'll find a sketch ahead that speaks to your dream look. Ultimately, the following ensemble previews are as unique as their inspiration sources, which include everything from Paris in the springtime and the Old Masters to the English monarchy and Ella Fitzgerald.
Consider the following sketches a preliminary shopping guide. You can use them to narrow down the labels you love or inform your search as you decide which fashion houses and boutiques to visit. At the very least, they offer you a glimpse into the minds of the artists who bring the real garments to life—which makes putting that wedding dress on for the first time that much more special.
If you're a modern bride who wants to make a classic, but dramatic statement, put Allison Webb's newest wedding dress collection on your radar. "This collection is all about elegant drama. Inspired by the grandeur of the metropolitan opera, gowns are filled with architectural details, sophisticated sparkle, and touches of classic black," says Webb. "Embellished jackets add detail to the gowns and give brides the option of customizing their looks to create styles uniquely their own. Get ready for crystals, bows, lace, and pearls!" You can add color to the list, too, as evidenced by this sketch (we're loving that statement black bow!).
Alyne by Rita Vinieris
If there's one thing we've come to expect from Rita Vinieries' line, Alyne, it's that each gown's every stitch has one intention: romance. While the designer has gravitated towards dreamy lace fabrications as of late, her Spring 2020 collection might go back to the basics. This sketch's princess-style silhouette, subtle cut-out neckline, and flowing skirt feel undeniably royal and—of course—romantic in a newfangled way.
The latest creations from Amsale "explore depth and dimension through unexpected volumes, layering, and tiers," explains design director Margo Lafontaine. "This sketch features a crepe camisole gown layered with an embroidered tulle T-shirt that has a dramatic cathedral length train that drapes from the back shoulders."
Anne Barge is going back to the brand's Southern roots this season. According to the designer, their Spring 2020 collection is "infused with a fresh, modern vibe, putting a spin on Old-World charm," which explains the dramatic corset bodices, statement puffed sleeves, and sculpted silhouettes. Brides will find the finest-possible fabrics—think Mikado scuba fabric, fine lace, and crepe—in this series, as well as next-level add-ons, like off-the-shoulder brocade capes and coats. This number showcases the latter, thanks to its Italian floral-embossed cape, which is shown over a re-embroidered lace A-line wedding dress.
Planning a destination wedding in Italy? If you were drawn to the historic country's unparalleled landscapes and Gothic cathedrals, the Berta Spring 2020 wedding dress collection will likely resonate—it was inspired by Milan. The result? Sculptural numbers that tap into Berta's sexy signature style, as evidenced by this opulent mermaid. Complete with a plunging neckline, form-fitting bodice, and voluminous skirt, this gown was made with a "combination of luxe fabrics to create a never-before-seen masterpiece," says designer Berta Balilti.
Blush by Hayley Paige
"I've always believed in pursuing the harmony of something fresh with something familiar when it comes to design," says Hayley Paige, noting that her eponymous label Blush by Hayley Paige is her outlet for this fresh-meets-familiar juxtaposition. "As an unconditional complement to the Hayley Paige brand, the Blush by Hayley Paige collection is playing a flirty game of opposites: spontaneity versus ceremonials." The "Mabel" gown, pictured here, melds the designer's aesthetic (she's known for her dramatic A-lines!) with a splash of "textural novelty," via a unique patterned peplum. As for the rest of the upcoming collection? It's "for the bride who wants a little bit of everything," she says.
If there's one thing David's Bridal delivers season after season, it's diversity. The accessible label's latest launches showcase exactly what we love about the brand: Classic, inspired (and affordable!) designs that speak to all women. This sketch, which shows a lace trumpet wedding dress with a sweetheart neckline and layered tulle godet skirt, is just a preview of what's to come. Brides-to-be can also expect fun accessories (think sparkly accessories, like the jeweled belt seen here!) that add pops of glam to the traditional styles.
David Bridal's contemporary-forward label, dB Studios, caters to the woman of today, specifically. Like its predecessors, the line's Spring 2020 collection features looks that feel modern, but distinctly feminine. This crepe and satin number's one-shoulder cut is fashion-forward, while its flouncy, ruffled neckline and high-shine accessories incorporate the label's go-to girlishness.
Known for her lustrous fabrics (think voluminous tulle, metallic lace, and gauzy silk), Francesca Miranda does a little bit of everything: Her creations are often Grecian and ethereal, while simultaneously daring and alluring. We have a feeling we'll see her take this whimsical-meets-sexy approach this season—although, if this sketch is any indication, there's a degree of romanticism coming our way, too. Note this beauty's dramatic, off-the-shoulder sleeves and subtle vine pattern work.
The larger-than-life "Lindsay" dress from the Spring 2020 Galia Lahav bridal collection speaks to the entire oeuvre, titled "Make a Scene"—the dramatic number and its counterparts were partly inspired by the musical Dreamgirls, which explores how a star (or, in this case, a bride) prepares for her big moment. "The young woman going out into the big world, listening to her own voice, and believing in herself was our muse," notes the designer.
Another David's Bridal sister label, Galina is and has always been all about the lace. From eyelet to Chantilly, there's a lace component behind just about every number. Based on this preview—the hand-appliquéd lace gown features an illusion neckline, short sleeves, a sheer back bodice, and an overlay tulle train—it's clear that the design team is sticking to what they do best this season.
Galina may be all about the sweet, but Galina Signature is all about the bold. With princess-worthy ball gowns and figure-hugging mermaids, the David's Bridal collaboration is designed with the luxurious bride in mind. Opulent fabrics tie into the brand's aesthetic, too, which is evident in this trumpet beauty; the hand-appliquéd lace on tulle is bound to be a hit with women who want a dramatic, but still-romantic big-day look.
If you're getting Botticelli Primavera vibes from this sneak-peak from Halfpenny London's Spring 2020 collection, you're spot on. Titled "The Painter Collection," the brand's new series "celebrates the intrigue of the subject, the passion of the artist, and the beauty of the finished masterpiece in equal measure," says Kate Halfpenny—the label's own master.
Hayley Paige's most recent signature collection "taps into all of the senses," including a sixth one, which she calls "sartorial umami." "There is generous amount of texture to digest, but also a considerable spectrum to explore a wider range in style," she adds. "The 'Dax' wedding dress, illustrated here, is a tulle ball gown with prickled paillettes and layered florets; she's wily and adventurous and made for the bride who welcomes that 'sense of extra.'"
Ines di Santo
"I designed this gown for a woman who has already established her personal style. She knows herself well and is familiar with owning the room," says designer Ines di Santo of this airy, silk ensemble, complete with a watercolor ombré skirt. Take one look at this sketch and the creative's inspiration behind her most recent oeuvre—which she calls a "fairy-tale dream"—makes perfect sense: "Our bride spends time in a shimmering lunar garden filled with celestial wonder. She dances through branches with fluorescent blossoms. Ships sail in the clouds amongst the moon and the stars. Tiny woodland creatures and beautiful gold and silver twigs dance around her wrists and fingers. Sunrise brings with it gorgeous soft color and the dream leaves a trace of wonder she tucks in her memory."
Founder and creative director of Isabelle Armstrong, Remy Quinones drew from her personal heritage, which involves the "rich, historical, medieval city of her birth, Lugo, Spain," when creating her latest garments. Named after its muse, the Lugo Cathedral—a 12th-century structure that combines Gothic, Romanesque, and Neoclassical architecture—"The Lugo Collection" features gowns (including this one!) that "mimic the sweeping structural details of the Cathedral's arches and curves and are expressed in dramatically-shaped cone skirts and dynamic new sleeves and bodices," notes the designer.
Jenny by Jenny Yoo
Searching for a wedding dress with some of the most unique embroidery work out there? You'll likely find it within the Jenny by Jenny Yoo Spring 2020 collection, which introduces "new and ultra-romantic embroideries and beading that capture the light-hearted and feminine spirit of the bride who wears the gowns," says Yoo. The "Lennon" wedding dress, seen here, is proof—sculpted and feminine, the subtle fit-and-flare feels sweet (note the romantic floral lace embroidery) but also bold (we love that dramatic neckline). It's the perfect, playful choice for a dreamy, but modern garden party, adds the designer.
Justin Alexander Signature
We're getting serious Princess Eugenie vibes from this Spring 2020 Justin Alexander Signature preview—thanks to that folded back neckline, this wedding dress is fit for a bride who wants to channel the royal on her own big day. The majority of the collection, however, was inspired by the "transformative nature of spring," says Alexander, adding that a "romantic, patchwork floral story," "large floral lace motifs," and "embroidered florals" are all predominant components of the garden-party-ready series.
Lazaro Perez's newest designs are redefining what it means to be a feminine woman of modernity. While brides should anticipate classic silhouettes, they'll be anything but expected. "Florals are a strong theme this season," he says, noting that "printed gardenias," "cascading petals," "jewel-encrusted bodices," and didn't-see-it-coming color (like this sketch's icy-blue hue!) are key elements of these new gowns. With lots of shimmer and shine, these "enchanting creations celebrate a bride's inner beauty, brilliance, and glamour."
Everything about Leanne Marshall's design aesthetic (her use of color and unexpected shapes, for example) screams modern—but her Spring 2020 offerings are "a bit different from my usual," she says. Though she describes the collection as "contemporary meets ethereal, in the most beautiful way possible," we're loving the subtle classic vibes of this sketch; the fold-over, off-the-shoulder neckline, fitted bodice, and subtly voluminous skirt feel decidedly structured and romantic.
Brides looking for a big-day suit should turn their gaze to Lein's newest offerings. "For this collection, I contemplated on women's leisurewear in the early 20th century, a time when women started wearing trousers [which marked] the evolution of women's suiting," says Lein's founder and designer, Meredith Stoecklein. "It's a way of celebrating women and the choices we have to wear the clothes that empower us. I want my Lein bride to feel like herself, dressing for a moment in time that marks a new chapter and one that will be a forever memory."
A distinct girlish playfulness sets a Lela Rose wedding dress apart from the rest—something that the designer has managed to recreate, in a fresh way, in her newest designs. The Spring 2020 Lela Rose bridal collection has a "modern antique" vibe, thanks to the gowns' heirloom pins and broaches. This lace V-neck A-line, which was created with two types of lace—a corded Chantilly for the bodice and plain Chantilly for the skirt—both pays homage to the overarching vintage feel (note the unique, Old-World pattern work) and nods to the label's signature feminine aesthetic (check out that move-with-you, pleated skirt!).
Consider Lihi Hod's latest work your one-way ticket to springtime in Paris. Inspired by the city's yearly rebirth, the Spring 2020 series, titled "Dreams," is full of three-dimensional flower details. This sketch certainly speaks to the collection's overarching floral motifs (we're loving the "Victoria" gown's beaded blooms!), but it also hints at its sex-appeal through a plunging neckline. "Modern, fashion-forward brides" will gravitate towards these fashions, says Hod.
The Maggie Sottero 2020 wedding dress collection was inspired by you—the modern woman. "Women today are more confident and empowered than ever, and are truly embracing being feminine. We wanted to celebrate the strength and beauty in femininity," says Kelly Midgley, the brand's Vice President of Design and Advertising. Enter exquisite laces, luxurious fabrics, and subtle sparkle—all of which enunciate that refined womanhood. The "Paislee" gown hits two of those collection staples: Its lace motifs and marquice organza make for an opulent garment perfect for a "light-hearted bride planning a classic fairy-tale wedding with an exciting twist."
For dynamic wedding dresses, put the latest looks from David Bridal's collaboration with Melissa Sweet on your radar. This sketch is only a glimpse of the comfortable numbers (you'll be able to hit the dance floor uninhibited!) to come—but it's the perfect example of how the label manages to create relaxed numbers that still feel refined. We love this beauty's artfully-applied lace on point d'esprit and its full, circular skirt.
If we had to sum up mother-daughter duo's Mira and Lihi Zwillinger's label in one word, we'd choose ethereal. Though all of the creatives' collections are decidedly thematic, each fits into this cohesive under this effervescent umbrella—including the couture atelier's most recent series, which was inspired by the power of wish making. " The overall inspiration was to turn a dream into a reality through the power of a wish. Our wish was to incorporate technology outside of the fashion world to create something new and innovative," explains the designers. The wedding dress illustrated here, a tulle A-line with a draped top, perfectly exemplifies this vision. "The handwork is incredibly delicate and is free-handedly illustrated and truly feels like a dream that came to life."
Morilee by Madeline Gardner
Inspired by the desert, Madeline Gardner kept light in mind when designing her Fall/Winter 2019 collection. "Textured, dimensional beading will reflect in the golden hour's light, as layers of tulle and organza reveal decadent depth and dimension," she says. "Through the wind and sand, the silhouette of simple structured shapes will capture the natural spirit of the bohemian bride."
Naeem Khan is known for reinventing the modern-day wedding dress; with jumpsuits, pantsuits, and even bridal sweat suits, the designer doesn't shy away from breaking the mold. Case in point: This fashion-forward sketch, which shows off Khan's penchant for unexpected, sultry design (we love this jumpsuit's key hole cut-out!). Just as exciting is the multicolor ombré veil—we have a feeling we'll be seeing lots of pastels in the Naeem Khan Spring 2020 collection, which he defines as "pure romance."
Over-the-top opulence defines Persy's newest range of couture wedding dresses—which makes them perfect for the bride who wants to be "in her most luxurious and adorned form" on her big (re: larger-than-life) day, says designer Yaniv Persy. This sketch, which features Swarovski crystal beading over appliquéd lace, shows off the Couture collection's reflective quality—and reinforces the label's commitment to the perfect fit: "The emphasis is on the fit of the body with soft and delicate lace, combined with our elegant tulle draping. Beauty, individuality, and perfection are embodied in this season's timeless designs."
Rivini by Rita Vinieris
Though we wouldn't say that Rivini by Rita Vinieris employs a signature fabric, we would say that the designer leans towards everything sheer when designing this bold, fashion-forward line. In the past, we've seen everything from see-through suits to breezy, gladiator-inspired gowns. Though the label's Spring 2020 oeuvre feels more romantic and feminine than its predecessors (note this sketch's delicate neckline and floral motifs!), it's clear (pun intended) that Vinieris' love for translucent fabric is here to stay.
Allow Sareh Nouri to present "The Royal Collection," a series of wedding dresses that place emphasis on "modern sophistication" and "traditional structure;" all gowns in the collection are named after the monarchy (who's curious to see what the "Meghan Markle" looks like?). Just as noteworthy? The designer's brand-new fabric, matte satin, which offers a subtle sheen "that demands attention upon first glance." We bet the collection's details will capture just as much attention—this number's ruffled back peplum is just the beginning.
The inspiration behind Savannah Miller's Spring 2020 bridal collection is personal: "When I was a young girl, my mother would play Ella Fitzgerald on Sunday mornings as she prepared our traditional English Sunday roast lunch. Her deep, melodic tones would envelop our house as she sang about love with such truth and passion," she says. "This energy inspired me this season to create a collection that oozed with romance and the ultimately sophisticated aesthetic of 1930s Hollywood that is my signature starting point for every collection." In addition to designing with the utmost degree of romance in mind, she also wanted to highlight the "original bohemians'" fashion sense—something this wide-legged bridal pantsuit taps into. "They were pioneers of a new and brave way to dress, something that I have tried to capture with bold and unusual details."
Sottero and Midgley
The bride that will gravitate towards the Sottero and Midgley Spring 2020 is "sophisticated" and "understands simple elegance—she knows that less is more," says Kelly Midgley. The "Aston" dress, seen here, puts that less-is-more motto into perspective: The Aldora crepe, jersey, and lace creation, complete with sparkly pewter embroidery, is sleek and classic, but still fashion-forward.
Steven Birnbaum's Bespoke collection consistently takes the wedding dresses of yesterday and imbues them with playful, party-ready accents (the designer doesn't shy away from a good ruffle!). That effervescent, dance-ready quality just might carry over into his newest roster of gowns—at least, that's what the "Juliette" implies. "This embroidered, satin-faced silk organza cascading ball gown is a play on volume and lightness," says Birnbaum of the creation.
We're calling it: Based on this preview, romance and "overwhelming femininity" will define the Temperley Spring 2020 wedding dress collection; next-level embellishments will transform these gowns into the label's dreamiest yet. "The 'Lavinia' dress has a classically-sleek silhouette with long sleeves and a sheer tulle décolletage that are dotted with scattered sequins," notes Alice Temperley, adding that the tulle garment will also feature corded 3D flowers, iridescent sequin petals, scattered stones, pearls, and sequins.
Season after season, THEIA demonstrates that its garments take after the label's namesake—the goddess of metal and light. Ethereal and detailed (usually with vine or laurel motifs!), the brand's offerings operate somewhere between the classic and the bohemian. Brides who love that signature Grecian, flowing aesthetic will enjoy the brand's most recent work, which features this mousseline, deep V-neck number, complete with a rouched waist and sexy high slit.
"Our upcoming collection is an exploration of our sculptural creations mingled with feminine and masculine motifs, while introducing separates and new fabrics that bring a lightness to the collection," says the team at Viktor&Rolf of the contemporary collection just about to hit runways. We're also predicting lots of architectural bows in unexpected places, based on this sketch's unique knee accent.
Look closely and you'll see this sketch's sparky qualities—a main feature of the "Tempest" gown, seen here, and of Watters' Spring 2020 collection, titled "The Great Expanse." Inspired by the great lengths one goes to for love, this series is "filled with timeless, clean looks," says designer Vatana Watters.
Willowby by Watters
The two-piece wedding dress trend is alive and well in Willowby by Watters newest collection, which offers bohemian brides the crocheted lace garments of their dreams. "Part of the 'Chasing the Sun' collection, the 'Yuzu' top and 'Grove' skirt feature crochet-inspired lace and dramatic bell sleeves," notes Watters. "This new Willowby collection was inspired by the adventure of seeking out joy and cherished moments in life."