A menu of refined comfort foods showcasing seasonal ingredients produces an inviting array of fresh flavors. Here, ramp butter dresses up sea bass.
Separate ramp greens and stems from bulbs. Halve bulbs lengthwise; cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons, and transfer to a bowl. Coarsely chop greens and stems; transfer to another bowl.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add ramp bulbs, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add ramp greens and stems; cook, stirring occasionally, 1 minute more. Transfer mixture to a bowl; let cool completely.
Add remaining 3 tablespoons butter and 1/4 teaspoon salt to ramp mixture; season with pepper. Stir. Transfer to a small resealable bag. Starting at bottom of bag, roll to form a log, forcing out air as you roll; seal the bag. Transfer ramp butter to freezer until firm, about 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Lightly brush both sides of fish with oil. Season tops with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 3/4 teaspoon pepper. Place, skin side down, on a rimmed baking sheet. Cut ramp butter into thin rounds, and arrange over tops, dividing evenly. Roast until fish is opaque and flakes easily, about 10 minutes. Remove from oven, and baste with pan juices; let stand 5 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges and pan juices if desired.