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Feature Presentation: Eyes, Lips, Cheeks

Martha Stewart Weddings, Fall 2005

Everyone has a favorite feature -- be it her eyes, her smile, or the dimples on her cheeks. "Draw attention to that on your wedding day, and let your other features play a supporting role," says makeup artist Christina Reyna of New York City, who created the pretty looks on these pages. Emphasizing one trait doesn't mean using a heavier hand, however; we show you how to keep your look soft and elegant.

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Eyes
Beautiful eyes can appear even bigger and brighter if you concentrate color along the lash line and enhance lashes with mascara. Keep other makeup delicate with a neutral blush and sheer lip gloss.

Get the Look
Soft shadows are best when applying a delicate wash of color over the whole lid. Use just one shade over the entire eyelid for the most natural look. Or put pale shadow on the lid and a medium tone in the crease to add depth.

Lining eyes further defines their shape. Try purples or browns; either is subtler than black. Line top and lower lashes with a stiff brush. Applying more color on the outer corner extends the eye, making it seem wider. Use a small shadow brush to soften liner by blending up and out.

Curling lashes opens up the eyes. Hold curler on top lashes for ten seconds. Brush on brown mascara (it's softer than black) from root to tip to hold curl.

Use highlighter to erase any dark areas under the eyes, or try this trick from makeup artist Eva Scrivo: Dab pale blue shadow at the inner corner of the eye.

1. Paul and Joe Dual Crayon in Sugar Duo #03, $18.
2. Prescriptives Softlining Pencil in Fig, $17.50.
3. Bliss Lidstick in Amber, $15.
4. Darphin Concealer Pencil in Bronze, $30.
5. Darphin eye-shadow brush, $30.
6. Bourjois Paris eye shadow in #56 Beige Delicat, $13.50. Dust a shimmer or light shade on the brow bone and in the inner corner to illuminate the eyes.
7.Bare Escentuals i.d. bare- Minerals Glimmer in True Gold, $13.
8. Fresh Eye Shadow in It's a Girl!, $21.
9. Bloom Eyeshadow in Latte, $15
10. Aveda Petal Essence eye color in Illumination and 11.Sunset, $11 each; all have a bit of shimmer. Cream-to-powder eye shadows have the best of both worlds --  the cream looks as if it melts into the skin, while the powder lasts longer.
12. Estee Lauder Pure Pops Creme EyeShadow in Golden Seduction and 13. Caramel Lust, $20 each.
14. Bourjois Paris Talons Aiguilles lengthening and curving mascara in Brun Debride, $13.
15. Darphin eyeliner brush, $30.
16. Elizabeth Arden Eyeshadow Brush No. 1, $35, and 17.No. 2, $30.
18. Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler, $18.

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Lovely Lips
You don't need a fire-engine-red lipstick to call attention to your lips. To bring out the shape of this model's lips, makeup artist Christina Reyna used a neutral lip liner and glossy lipstick in a subtle shade. Makeup on the eyes and cheeks was kept simple with nude eye shadows, a single coat of mascara, and a rosy blush.

Get the Look
Choose a shade of lipstick that is deeper and richer than what you normally wear or than your own natural pigment but is still in the same color family. A bold shade can overshadow your other features. Choose something that looks creamy.

Trace along the lip line with a neutral liner, starting at the center of the bottom lip. Draw out to the left corner; return to center and draw to right corner. Repeat on top. Blend edges with a dry lip brush.

Filling in lips with liner gives lipstick a base to adhere to. A lip brush allows for precise application and helps color last.

Select clear gloss or a shade that coordinates with your lipstick; dab it on at the center of the bottom lip. It will reflect light, making lips appear fuller.

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Rosy Cheeks
Whether you have prominent or delicate cheekbones, play up your bone structure for a soft and romantic look. "The aim is to give cheeks a healthy flush," says New York City makeup artist Tina Turnbow. Apply a bit of color to the apples of the cheeks, and follow with a dusting of shimmery powder to make cheekbones stand out.

Get the Look
Choose a blush with some color to it: A peachy apricot looks great on warm olive skin tones; a bright pink works well on cool, pale, or dark African American skin. Apply the blush to the apples of the cheeks, where you naturally flush, and blend outward.

Always use a moisturizer with an SPF 15 or higher on your face. Let it soak in for a few minutes before putting on makeup. Keep skin dewy by lightly dusting on a sheer powder foundation on your T-zone with a puff, and use a brush to blend.

Use a fluffy brush to apply powder blush, then blend it out toward the temples.

To bring out the contours of your face, swipe a sheer color just below the cheekbones, and dot a shimmery highlighter on the tops of the cheekbones.

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Here's what we like for lips and cheeks:

1. Christian Dior Cosmetics Lipliner Pencil in Linen, $22.
2. Prescriptives Sheer Lip Pencil in Sheer Champagne, $15.
3. Aveda Lip Liner in Tarragona, $12. Pink- or red-based berry shades are nice for cool tones, peachy colors look good on warm skin, and pinky nudes work on almost anyone.
4. Guerlain Paris Divinora Sheer and Shine Lipstick color N362, $24.
5. Paul & Joe Lipstick in Peony #02, $18.
6. Sally Hansen Diamond Lip Treatment in Champagne Toast, $4.95.
7. Paul & Joe Triplegloss in Pink Sand, London #002, $25.
8. Mally Beauty Life, Love, & a Really Great Lipgloss in Love Is Pink, $19.50.
9. Fresh Gloss Absolute in Bellini, $22. Slight shimmer in these blushes adds a glow to skin.
10. Chanel Silky Cheek Colour in Be-Bop, $40.
11. Estée Lauder Tender Blush in Petal, $25.
12. Use Chanel Silky Cheek Colour in Incognito, $40, on cheekbones.
13. Becca Loose Shimmer Powder in Angel, $18.
14. Christian Breton Blusher in Suzy Q, $20.
15. Use ZChemists La Fee de Paris makeup pads to apply powder and 16 Clinique Blush Brush, $25, to blend it in.
17. Pop beauty Cheeky Cake blush in Beach Beauti, $18.

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